Exploring Pesaro

It takes a long time for the hot water to arrive through the pipes. Maybe I am the first guest to shower.

Breakfast begins at 7:45, so we agree to go for a walk before that. But as we exit the lift at 7:30 the first guests have already attacked the buffet. We postpone the walk and join the raid.

Italians spend more money on clothes than other Europeans, and to look good ("fare la bella figura") is important; but when on holiday the dress code is different, and most guests wear casual shorts, T-shirts and sandals. The atmosphere is relaxed and there are a lot of buon giornos in the air. Most guests are Italian.

The postponed walk takes us North along the beach promenade. To our right the blue Adriatic sparkles. The parasols stand closely together on the beach and wait for someone to enjoy their shade. On our left are all the hotels.

To Pesaro's railway station

From Piazza del Popolo

We buy tickets for Venice at the railway station. We don't leave until next Tuesday, but we want to make reservations. The machine accepts credit cards, and like in Rome it doesn't want your PIN code.

If I were a credit card thief I would immediately buy a lot of train tickets and get into the travel agent business.

On the sea promenade

On the way back we pass the remains of a Roman villa. There isn't much to see, but the floor is surprisingly close to the current street level; in comparison ancient Rome is several metres below.

The Globe in Pesaro

The tourist office is at Piazza della Liberta close to the sea and the globe sculpture seen on many photos from Pesaro. A brochure at the hotel said something about guided tours to a palace, Villa Imperiale, outside Pesaro, and we want to sign up. However the tour is cancelled - we are the first to even ask!

Instead I get a timetable for the buses to Urbino, the medieval city not far from Pesaro. The lady explains that you don't have to walk to the station - the bus passes through the city centre.

We have lunch at a cafeteria on the beach promenade. A sign says 34 C, but it feels hotter. Siestatime!

Evening in Pesaro

Past seven we walk to the fashionable restaurant, Lo Scudiero, near Piazza del Popolo.

The menu is on the door, but is difficult to understand - the only thing clear to non-Italians is that eating here is expensive. We would need help all the way through and that doesn't appeal to us.

There are several restaurants in the vicinity of Piazza Lazzarini. We pick one, but first we get an aperitif at the piazza. The waiter is very big and very tired.

Ristorante Felici e contenti

Sugar bag from Felici e contenti

All tables outside Ristorante Felici e contenti are occupied when we return.

A very polite young waiter, who speaks excellent English, finds a table inside. It is colder here and more pleasant than the 31 C outside. The menu is in Italian only, "but don't hesitate to ask if you need any help!". That is not necessary.

The room is nice with beams in the ceiling. For starters we share a plate of cold assorted seafood. The bottled Chardonnay gets an ice bucket and a cloth. It is delicious. The seafood is squid, crab (we think), prawns in a spicy mayonnaise and some small pickled sardine or anchovy fillets. Very good.

The main course is grilled goodies from the Adriatic Sea: a sole of some kind, squid and giant prawns on a skewer. The prawns need to be relieved of their armour, and that is greasy work. I miss a fingerbowl and a plate for the growing pile of shells and bones.

We have no room for dessert and order coffee with amaretto/grappa. Finally we get an ice-cold limoncello on the house. The bill says 62.5 of which the wine, amaretto and grappa account for 17. An excellent place and no wonder it was busy.

Back at the hotel there is music and dance. A pianist plays popular tunes on an electric organ, and the older clientele waltz with enthusiasm. A young waiter tries "O sole mio" and gets an undeserved applause. We leave when he warms up for an encore.