Myrties and Massouri

The towns Myrties and Massouri lie on the west coast of Kalymnos. They are the island's tourist centres.

They lie in a beautiful setting by the sea and with a high cliff to the back. The towns have grown into one, and if there weren't signs by the city limit, you would indeed think they were one, when you walk along the coastal road with the magnificent view.

Sunset in Myrties The strait between Myrties and Telendos White balusters and blue sea
Click to enlarge

Along the coastal road lie hotels, "studios", restaurants, bars and souvenir shops side by side with the highest concentration in Massouri.

On the slope behind are some houses, but in general there aren't many "ordinary" houses - it is mostly accommodation for tourists. I guess most of the Greeks, you see, work for the tourist business.

But some Greeks do live here. For instance there was quite a crowd by the church Sunday. Most of them were standing outside while the priest was singing. I guess it is quite normal to walk in and out during the service.

There are two mini markets with high prices in Myrties. The absence of ordinary shops means that Myrties isn't a real town - at least not in my world. Massouri has a bit more to choose from - for instance there is a goldsmith and an ATM in the square. No bank though.

Despite the distinct touristy character it is peaceful. We were there in September by the end of the season, but I don't think that means so much. If it gets a bit too dull, you can always take the bus to Pothia or rent a vehicle.

There are some pebbly beaches and the water gets deep pretty quickly. The water is crystal clear.

Myrties harbour

The pier in Myrties

Telendos shrouded in clouds

Click to enlarge

There is a harbour in Myrties, small but real, with fishing boats and a few pleasure-crafts. Most fishing boats are made from wood and painted in bright Greek colours: white and blue.

There is a sign where you enter one of the piers. It is in Greek, so I didn't understand it, but it says something about "authorised", so I presume it is Kalymnos' answer to EU rules about securing harbours against terrorism. I cannot imagine anybody taking it seriously.

A bit further downtown is a pier where the ferries call. We arrived here from Leros, and you can also take a boat to the village Emporios up north.

A sign advertises this trip and says that Emporios is "unspoiled". So the Greeks know it too - that Myrties and Massouri aren't exactly unspoiled.

Across the 700 m broad strait lies the small island Telendos. Small ferries sail every half hour each way. They sail until midnight, but maybe you should ask to be certain - who knows if the timetable is subject to change in case of a soccer match with the national team or events like that.

Studios Katina

We stayed at the apartment hotel Katina in Myrties, and it was okay.

We had a fairly small single room apartment with a nice terrace with walls to the neighbouring terraces. There were only a few kitchen utensils, so cooking was basic.

The beds are good and the air cooler works. There is a small pool area where you can buy drinks and snacks.

The hostess usually wears a sarong, and that seems like a pleasant garment in the hot Greek summer. She speaks perfect English with an Australian accent and is very kind.

Our Danish neighbours also had their breakfast on the terrace. Once I was standing I saw a bottle of Jägermeister (a bitter) on the low wall. Time and again we heard an "Ahh!", and I guess that was after a glas of bitter. When he didn't say "Ahh!", he talked pub-Danish, so I christened him "PubPaul".

With likeminded they usually sat at the local bar bringing pride to the nation.

You meet many different types when travelling.